First Few Days in Kathmandu

*I'm able to use my laptop to type entries but it's anyone's guess when I can get to a computer to upload them! Finally, here are my first few posts:

Thursday, September 18

For the last couple of weeks, and predominantly for the last couple of days, I’ve had that same feeling you have when you’re on a roller coaster, slowly cranking up the first big hill: you’re excited, a little scared, sure it’s going to be fun...unless something malfunctions and you go hurtling off the tracks. Which is actually part of the fun of it, I think.

I woke up this morning in a posh hotel in Delhi halfway around the world and a half a day away from home. I took a long, hot shower and skyped with Thomas as I sipped my tea and ate the fresh croissants that room service had been so kind as to deliver to my door. Then it was on to the airport, where with the kindness of a few strangers, I checked in for my flight, made it through customs, and boarded the plane for the short ride to Kathmandu. It was only a 75 minute journey and yet a MEAL was served and a delicious one at that. As we started our descent I had my face pressed against the window, eagerly awaiting my first glimpse of the Himalayas, when I kid you not - there appeared a big, beautiful rainbow. I thought surely this had to be a sign of, well, good things. Like - this is where I was meant to be at this time and it is going to be a fabulous adventure, etc. etc. And that may be what it did mean. But I know for sure what it didn’t mean: things would go smoothly upon arrival.

After spotting and grabbing both my bags from the sweltering, sticky, smoky baggage area, I made my way into the sunshine to meet my contact, Bhupi. As a lone female traveler I was immediately swarmed by a group of men, all vying to be my taxi driver. I politely declined because although I didn’t see Bhupi I knew he would be there. I knew because we’ve been corresponding for months and he said he’d be there and we confirmed via email twice and even on the phone once and frankly, if he wasn’t there, I’d have no idea where I was supposed to even go. I know you feel this one coming: no Bhupi. My glisten turned into a stream and quick. After a minute or two of respite, the swarm returned, all of them speaking at once with barely a recognizable word to my ear. Then I caught a rather insistent young man saying something like “Waiting for Bhupendra...he said take taxi...to guest house”. Now I know my parents are saying the Prayer of Protection for me everyday, but I thought jumping into a car with a total stranger to go to a “guest house” might be pushing it. He pulled out his phone and said I could call Bhupi and check. Only guess what super-planner, over-preparer could not find: Bhupi’s number! I tried my emergency international cell phone but couldn’t get reception (yes, I was going to call Thomas at 4:15 am because I did leave the number with him). I steadfastly refused any cab service for a good half hour, having no clue what I was going to do (try to find the monastery myself? Show up at the U.S. Embassy?), when the same gentleman handed me the phone saying, “It’s the guest house...Bhupi said is OK”. So on the word of some stranger who was maybe speaking on behalf of Bhupi but maybe not, I made a withdrawal from the P of P bank and relented. Cell Phone Man handed me off to a porter who then wheeled my bags out to the parking lot where there were two vehicles: a newish looking mini van and right next to it, what looked like a 1962 Yugo, if they had made one green one back then and it had been driven hard and put away wet. A lot. Discussion ensued. “What could he possible be debating?”, I thought as I looked at the size and condition of the vehicles and my four large bags (okay, two large bags and two medium bags). And you’ve probably guessed what car I ended up in: yup, the pseudo-Yugo. With my bags in the trunk and the trunk open and flapping in the wind.

We headed into the city, which reminded me very much of Cairo. Lots of traffic, no traffic lights, lots of beeping, jay-walking and general mayhem. I asked how far the guest house was (not like we were on a meter, but I wanted to devise an exit strategy if we got to far away from the crowds). He answered my question but I have no idea what he said. I started to think about the best body posture (tuck and roll?) to adopt when I opened the door and jumped from the car. The trip was maybe 5 miles but it took 45 minutes. And his “car” stalled sixteen times. (Yes, I counted.) Once, it only started because some friendly policemen pushed us up a hill. I pulled out my emergency phone again, still thinking of calling Thomas, but realized that a panicked call from the back of a stranger’s car in a strip of land between India and China might make him worry.

The PoP bank kicked in and we arrived at the guest house (the Tibetian Peace House, to be exact) in one piece and there was Bhupi! It was probably culturally inappropriate but I was so glad to see him I gave him a big hug. I had at least had the foresight to ask the man from the Guest House how much I should expect to pay the taxi driver so I had the cash ready and handed it over. As I walked up to the house, I heard Bhupi ask him a question, get a response, and then take out his wallet. Seemed pretty obvious to me that the driver was trying to double-dip, which Bhupi confirmed. I point this out as character evidence because unfortunately, in my relief and exhaustion, I left my cell phone in that “car” and I’m not feeling optimistic about it’s return.

I had help getting my bags up to the 4th floor room where I’m staying for the next few days while I receive language and culture training and I had all of 30 minutes to decompress before I headed off to the medical training. The session basically consisted of a very nice doctor going through all the things that could go wrong with us physically while we’re in Nepal. In detail. Which I appreciated, but probably wasn’t in the best frame of mind to digest it.

I met a few fellow volunteers - all in various placements and from various places: England by way of Sweden, Australia, Canada, and Oklahoma and was comforted just by their presence. We had a nice dinner (rice/veggie curry) back at the guest house and now I am turning in for the night to try and catch some sleep. Was it really just a week ago that I was nibbling on fresh fruit at the craft services table with Patrick Swayze in between takes of our scene? Yikes.

Friday, September 19

I discovered at 1:30 a.m. that one of the downsides to being on the top floor is that you can hear what’s going on on the roof quite clearly. So, for example, if there were a large number of rats (gaggle? herd?) playing hockey with a nut, that might keep you awake. Until 3:00 a.m. I’m just saying.

Today was broken down into two segments: the morning, which was to be spent visiting the highlights of Kathmandu, and the afternoon, which was to be spent in class learning Nepali.

I “showered” in the cold water from the waist-high spicket in my bathroom and then met the crew downstairs and to my delight, I was informed that my cell phone had been returned! Cell Phone Man tracked down Crazy Death Car Driver and there was my mobile:)! I thanked him verbally and with a few hundred rupees (more than a few days’ wages in Nepal, or approximately $7 USD). And then Megan, our guide and our driver were on our way. Of the six hours we spent touring the city, a couple of them were spent in the back seat of the car riding through the filthiest, smelliest, loudest and most chaotic city I have ever experienced (and I thought nothing could outdo Cairo). The rest of the time we were exploring the significant Hindu and Buddhist temples, walking by the Bagmati river and dining at a restaurant in town (where they were playing Britney Spears’ debut CD in its entirety). I was trying to enjoy the sights, and our guide was friendly and accommodating, but I was just overwhelmed at the poverty and the squalor. I’m not even sure how to describe it - garbage everywhere, stray dogs and puppies every few steps, all of them with fleas and mange, monkeys, a few dead rats, piles of animal parts...and I would need a smell-cam to really round out the picture. Before I left, someone described her time in Nepal as “magical”. Hopefully I’ll find something magical in my time here.

I did catch a glimpse of the monastery where I’ll be staying: if you picture the city of Kathmandu in a bowl surrounded by mountains, then the monastery is on the rim of the bowl above the city. I’m hoping that the location will mean a little less noise and a little more fresh air.

We had language class in the late afternoon, taught by a charming young woman who did a wonderful job of introducing us to some basics. I was able to make a quick phone call to Thomas and then it was back to the TPH for dinner (rice again) and to bed. Today’s rolling blackout (there are one or two each day for a few hours at a time) was from 7 - 10 and when my ceiling fan kicked on at 10:00 pm, I fell right asleep.

Saturday, September 20

This morning we had some free time so I headed into Thamel (the more touristy part of Kathmandu) with Meg (a BU med student from Oklahoma) and Jamie (a recent college grad from Canada). We went to the internet cafe where I was able to log on, although it was slower than even what I remember dial up to be so I wasn’t able to read/write much. And then we were off to the office for our culture training class. We were given some information on Hindu religion, cultural practices, social mores and so on, do’s and don’t’s for behavior/dress, etc. and a preview of some upcoming festivals (the next and biggest one begins in 10 days and lasts for 15 days, during which it is my understanding that everything shuts down and they slaughter a lot of animals, as well as celebrate with family and friends and eat). Fortunately for me, they don’t celebrate this at the Buddhist monastery where I will be teaching so I won’t have to see the bloodletting. There is another festival at the end of October and I’m told this one involves no killing of animals and so I will likely check this one out.

In the afternoon we had more language class and then once again back to the TPH for dinner (more rice, anyone?).

And here are some random things that didn’t fit into the narrative of the day:

- I had a “Coke light” this morning in the market and I almost cried with delight as I drank it. It’s no Tab, but I was surprised at how comforting it was to sip a little piece of America.
- Although I’m making good progress with my Nepali, most of the monks are Tibetian so I’m going to have to learn some of that language somehow.
- Neither the U.S. or Canada give rabies vaccines, so the three of us walk around scared to death of all the stray dogs (if we’re bitten, we have to have 5 shots and pay for some expensive serum or something). Most dogs are unphased by our presence but for some reason, one started following us today and was jumping up and down on me! It is so against my nature to shoo an animal away, I had no idea how to do it! What would Cesar advise? I wish I knew!
- The most dangerous part of the trip so far is navigating the streets. Cars, motorcycles and rickshaws all drive on the left side of the road, with no lanes or traffic signs or signals of any sort, so its complete chaos. I’m looking forward to being nestled on the mountain top, where there are no cars. Tomorrow, when I’m brought to the monastery, we’ll drive as far as we can and then have to walk the rest of the way.
- I’m glad I brought my Glade scented candle, even though I felt silly packing it.
-